MANSFIELD — Great days start with a great breakfast. I strongly believe this, and consequently I’m a regular at many breakfast joints all over town.
But until now, Kruzins on Park Avenue West was not one of them.
Why? Because their large sign proudly claims they are “OPEN 24 HOURS” when this is manifestly not the case, and has not been for years. In fact, they’re open less than 12 hours a day – so it’s not even half-true.
Over time, I’ve begun to wonder if depriving them of my business on these grounds has perhaps been a bit of an overreaction; and that, maybe, it isn’t entirely rational to angrily mutter “not true” or “no you’re not” every time I drive past.
With this in mind, I abandoned my one-man protest this week and went in for some eggs and bacon. I wanted to find out where Kruzins stood in my personal ranking of Mansfield’s breakfast establishments.
I should mention at this point that, as an Englishman, I come predisposed to enjoy a good breakfast: back home, the ‘Great British Fry-Up’ is a revered and cherished institution. The old joke goes “to eat well in England, you should have breakfast three times a day” and that’s probably not bad advice.
There are some crucial differences from the breakfasts here. Bacon comes soft and floppy, not in crispy strips (“this isn’t bacon!” my wife often exclaims, “it’s HAM!”). It’s acceptable to serve toast at room temperature in a device known as a ‘toast rack.’ And there may be unusual or unfamiliar additions such as baked beans and black pudding (yep, fried pig’s blood).
What is the same, though, is the satisfying feeling of beginning the day on your own terms. If you make time for an unrushed breakfast, you’re making time to think, to consider, to mull over what lies ahead. And it’s a great leveler — up and down the social scale, the criteria for a good cooked breakfast is reassuringly consistent.
So, with the groundwork laid, and with us all in agreement that breakfast is the best meal of the day, let’s get back to Kruzins and Russell’s Top Five Mansfield Breakfast Countdown.
Disclaimer: I am not a restaurant critic nor am I equipped with exhaustive local knowledge. These rankings are based on personal whim and many other contributing factors, of which food is not necessarily the most significant. In all honesty, if you try to argue the placings I will probably back down immediately and re-arrange them according to your wishes.
#5 – Kruzins, Park Ave West
A respectable placing for a new entry, based on my first visit. Good grub, friendly staff, and even if they’re not a 24-hour operation they still open at 5 a.m., which (aside from all-night chains like Denny’s) is to my knowledge the earliest in town.
This is the kind of place where I feel relaxed and comfortable at the counter. I like sitting up close to the grill, hearing the clank, hiss and sizzle of the food preparation along with the chat of the regulars. Out through the tall windows you can watch the smokers as they huddle around the sidewalk tables with their morning coffee.
#4 – Coney Island Diner, Main Street.
The classic American diner, very much in keeping with its location in the Carrousel District and exactly the kind of place my family would love. In fact, the appeal to any out-of-town visitor is clear, and demonstrated by how busy it gets throughout the day.
The quality of the breakfast should warrant a higher ranking, but in terms of a regular morning hangout the cheerful white-and-bright appeal is – to my taste – something of a disadvantage. In this environment, early on in the day, I always feel slightly like I should have combed my hair better or worn a less-crumpled shirt.
#3 – V&M Family Restaurant, Lexington Avenue
I well remember the advance buzz, not long after my arrival in town, when word began to get around: V&M are coming to Mansfield. At the time this meant nothing to me, but the excitement surrounding the expansion of the much-loved Bellville business was palpable and the rumors spread like wildfire.
This is now a popular, thriving spot, and I know several people who claim that V&M serves the best bacon in town; I would not want to disagree. My wife spluttered with disbelief that I did not rank this establishment at the top of the list.
What she had not taken into account was my temperament. This is a great place to have a happy meal with your family. Trouble is, first thing in the morning, I don’t always want to be happy.
#2 – Coney Island Inn, Park St.
This is the other Coney Island, the one on the Square, and as much as I like them both the atmosphere here is more to my liking. There’s a good mix of people and a kind of cozy warmth that’s somehow seeped into the walls from decades of smoke and stories.
The open space and plentiful seating affords privacy and the freedom to linger. If I had something slightly under-the-radar to discuss, I’d plan on doing it here. This is the kind of place where I’d feel like lighting up a small cigar after breakfast and studying the horse racing paper, if cigars were still allowed and I knew anything about horse racing.
#1 – Mansfield Family Restaurants (Southside)
The location of the other Mansfield Family Restaurant on Park Avenue West is much closer to me, and very good in its own way, but Southside is the one I prefer. There’s a quicker pace and, in my experience, lots of loud laughter.
I’m not quite sure why it works so well for me. Maybe it’s the mysterious way it feels spacious and cramped at the same time. Or the old-fashioned parking lot that suggests the place used to be a drive-in with carhops. Or the way the old guys are all such flirts (with the waitresses, not with me.)
Regardless of ranking, all these places are well worth dropping in on. If you have any favorites of your own, please let me know – I’m always looking for somewhere new.
