MANSFIELD — A few weeks ago I wrote about some of the British food available in Mansfield, but I left out something crucial.
What any misplaced Englishman like myself really craves is the spice and flavor of Indian food. For when it comes to eating out in England, nothing can touch the popularity of the “curry house.”
Back in the U.K, the vindaloo and the biryani are as revered as fish ‘n’ chips or steak ‘n’ kidney pie. Not long after coming to the U.S. I found myself at an Indian restaurant in Atlanta, and I felt instantly at home: the food, the music, the decor, the bottles of Kingfisher beer – all were reassuringly familiar.
Now, wherever I find myself, I consider it of paramount importance to know where my nearest Indian restaurant is located. Luckily, we have an excellent one right downtown on the Square: The Saffron, owned and operated for the last four years by husband-and-wife team Hari and Warscha Nagpal.
I paid a visit last week, and while Hari was busy in the kitchen preparing for the dinner session, I sat down to talk with Warscha. I told her I was a confirmed addict of Indian food and wondered if she was aware of its huge popularity in Britain.
“Oh yes,” she laughed, “and in fact we went to Southall [in West London] when we visited England. They call it ‘Little India’ and it really is, just like a little piece of India.
“Before coming to America we lived in Hamburg, Germany,” she told me. “It was there I got my diploma in Hotel Management, which gave me a lot of experience in bartending, serving, catering and so on.
“Here in Mansfield we started in the hotel business, but at the same time I was making food for events at St. Peter’s where our son went to school and it proved to be really popular.”
Hari had cooking traditions of his own – both his parents were accomplished cooks who had passed on some family recipes – so he and Warscha decided to open a restaurant. They were unsure at first whether the area would sustain enough interest in Indian food, but their gamble paid off and they now have many devotees who can’t get enough.
Along with local regulars, they attract a good number of business travelers looking for Indian food who find the downtown location very convenient.
Still, many here are still unfamiliar with this cuisine, and I asked what it is that tends to scare off the uninitiated.
“Mainly they’re worried it will be too spicy,” said Warscha, who personally does not like her dishes too hot. “I want to taste the flavor in my food, not feel the heat!”
She explained how ingredients such as coriander, salt and turmeric can add flavor to the chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes without giving too much of a spicy kick.
The one ingredient they don’t use, surprisingly, is curry powder.
“We Indians call any sauced dish a curry,” Warscha told me, “but we use cumin, bay leaves, cloves, garlic, turmeric … I don’t have curry powder in my kitchen.”
Back in Britain, the customers at an Indian restaurant have very definite expectations when it comes to heat and spiciness of their dish – they like it hot.
For a while I was foolish enough to believe that there was no food too hot for me, a notion I was disabused of at Thurman’s Cafe in Columbus when I carelessly ordered the hottest of their hot wings. Several bites in, as my eyes filled with tears and my tongue went numb. I attempted to save face by insisting to my server, in a whimpering pipsqueak, that they were “a little on the mild side.”
Since then I’ve reluctantly accepted that I have limits but I still like it spicy.
Can customers crank up the heat here, I asked?
“Oh yes, of course – when you order dinner we’ll prepare it to your liking. We have some customers who like their food, say, three times as hot as an Indian would have it. If you can take it, we’ll make it!”
So are there certain dishes that are traditionally hotter than others?
“Yes, but remember it’s not just about the spices. Entrées with yogurt, cream or coconut milk to balance the heat will not taste as hot. With tomato or onion dishes, you feel the spice more.”
It makes me hungry just writing about it. Once you get a taste for this food there really is nothing like it; it can make you almost dizzy with pleasure.
If you’re already a convert you’ll need no further encouragement for me. For those who’ve never tried it, give it a chance. Go to the lunchtime buffet and experiment, or mix it up at the dinner sessions where diners are encouraged to share their dishes family-style.
Warscha and Hari will be happy to explain and make recommendations from the menu.
Saffron Indian Cuisine is located at 10 South Park St, Mansfield. All entrées are gluten-free.
The Safron’s hours are
Tuesday – Friday: 11 a.m. – 2 p.m. Lunch Buffet and 4 p.m. – 9 p.m. Full-menu Dining
Saturday: 12 p.m. – 9 p.m. Full-menu Dining
Metered parking is available outside (free after 6pm). Check out the menu and other info at http://www.saffronmansfield.com/
